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PONCA WILDERNESS BUFFALO NATIONAL RIVER |
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Centerpoint Trail to the
Goat Bluff and Granny Henderson's |
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Centerpoint Trailhead and Parking Area on Hwy. 43, 3.4 miles north of Buffalo Outdoor Center in Ponca. 36.06402°, 93.36023° |
Map of Hemmed-In Hollow, Etc. |
Trailhead Sign |
"A" Microwave Tower |
Beginning of Centerpoint Trail |
Access Point "1" Chimney Rock Trail 36.06527°, 93.35763° |
Reservoir Celler "A" William Parker Homesite (aka Parker Hill) Just uphill is a concrete reservoir near a spring 36.06575°, 93.34173° |
Access Point "2" 36.06493°, 93.34005° (Horse Trail down to Sneeds Creek) "C" Sinkhole 36.05492°, 93.32688° |
"B" 1/2 mile down the road from Parker Hill is the homesite of Frank Marshall Little (aka Cat Man). 36.06091°, 93.33527° He always kept 15-30 cats. He was married to Revia Mae Moore (1896-1974) Frank is buried in Plumlee Cem., Compton, AR |
Access Point "3" Goat Trail Intersection 36.05456°, 93.32352° On the left side of this intersection is a 36" Chinkapin Oak and also in this area is a sinkhole 10' deep and 30' across. |
Trail heading south to the Goat Bluff |
First bluff encounter |
The chiseled hole was made by parents of school children (a.1910) to make it safer for them to walk along the bluff from the old location of Center Point School, which is located down below the Goat Bluff on the Buffalo River. |
Site of Old Center Point School (a.1877) and approximate route of the school children. The log schoolhouse burned around 1920. A new schoolhouse was built near Sneeds Creek (Feature "J") |
This is the structure you can see from the Goat Bluff where the old school site was located. This site was first settled in 1830 by Abraham Villines. "E" 36.04890°, 93.32357° |
View of the Goat Bluff from the Buffalo River just north of old school site. |
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"D" Narrow part of the Goat Bluff 36.05098°, 93.32076° |
Access Point "4" Intersection of Center Point Trail and Sneeds Creek Trail 36.05637°, 93.31345° (Entrance to Granny Henderson's Cabin) |
Heading north to Granny's along Sneeds Creek Trail |
"F" Granny Henderson's Cabin (See more pictures and story below) 36.05710°, 93.31341° |
Story and Pictures of Barbara Eva Barnes Henderson & Family aka "Granny Henderson" Howard Villines Howard Villines related the following account of his recently deceased and beloved grandmother. His grandmother was Eva Barnes Henderson, or "Granny" Henderson to all who knew her, one of the most legendary and beloved residents of the Ozarks. Granny Henderson was born near the Buffalo River and had lived continuously on her 166 acres near Compton since 1912. She spent the last 23 years of her time on the land alone after her husband had passed away. She lived without the comforts of electricity, telephone, and plumbing, but she loved her home and welcomed countless "floaters" and tourists whom she let camp on her property through the years. Granny Henderson befriended so many people that she corresponded with people from as far away as Canada and England. She was once featured in National Geographic as exemplifying the finest attributes of the Ozark woman. About 1976 two or three Land Acquisition Officers from the Park Service approached Granny Henderson on her land and said, "We've come to appraise your place." Villines said his grandmother replied, "Appraise my place! What for? I wouldn't sell it for anything." To which the Park Service replied, "You'll sell it or we'll condemn it and take it." This shocking statement made the elderly woman physically ill and she was bedridden for several days after initial contact with the NPS. At first, the Harrison office of the BNR denied such rude treatment of Granny Henderson, but they did send someone out to apologize. Although there is some dispute on this matter, the Park Service may have failed to realize that Granny Henderson was not even the sole owner of her land. Her husband's will left her grandson, Howard, as co-owner. Howard Villines to this day remains bitter that the NPS probably did not even check the available records to determine correct ownership. He feels that his grandmother should not have been approached first by the LAO personnel. After the initial contact, he insisted that the Park Service deal directly with him and cease harassing his grandmother, a request with which the NPS complied. Then began what Villines called three or four years of "badgering" by the Park Service for him to sell the property. Time and again the Harrison NPS office would call Howard Villines to say that they had raised their purchase offer. After twice driving his grandmother on the tortuous road from her farmhouse all the way to Harrison only to discover that the LAO had not changed perceptibly its previous offer, Villines began to realize that the Park Service would probably eventually resort to condemnation. Therefore he asked for what he considered was a fair price and after an 18 month wait, the NPS agreed. In the subsequent negotiations the Park Service offered Granny Henderson a life estate on the land, but forbade her from keeping her few livestock (although the NPS has denied that it told her this). Her livestock were very important to her according to Howard Villines. She wanted her cattle where she could watch them and carry water to them daily. Granny Henderson was very distressed by this latest stipulation dictated by the Park Service. The thought of leaving her home of 65 years was too much for her to think about. As she had told National Geographic, "I hope to stay just as long as the Lord and those Government folks allow. Moving out o' here would mean givin' up all I've got, all I've ever had." Sadly, Granny Henderson decided that if she could not have her treasured livestock she would just as soon move. After the sale was consummated, Howard began to build a new house for his grandmother near his own. It was wintertime, however, and he asked the Park Service if they would allow his grandmother to remain on her land longer than the three months stipulated in the sale contract. The agency agreed, but only if Eva Barnes Henderson paid rent on the land she had lived so long upon. After Howard told his grandmother this latest development, "she just sat by the stove and wrung her hands. Time after time, I went down there and she would be doing that." When the day of the move came, late February of 1979, Howard Villines recalled, "We wanted her to come out to the new house with the first load, but she said, 'Just let me stay till the last load,' so that's what we did. She sat on a stool by the stove and cried the whole day." Granny Henderson spent only two days in the new house. She was then hospitalized for tests for cancer. She had borne "a small red pimple" on her forehead for 40 years, but at this stage of her life it had begun to grow into a malignant tumor. After Granny Henderson left the hospital she stayed at her grandson's home that night. The following morning revealed a heavy night's snowfall and Granny Henderson said, "Oh goody, its-a snowing. Now we won't have to go to that house." Granny Henderson always referred to her new house as "that house." Howard Villines then asked his grandmother to stay in his home. Five months later, Granny Henderson died, never having returned to "that house" forced upon her by the Park Service. The doctors who diagnosed her cancer said that a "trauma" had sparked the new growth. Howard Villines said, "We feel it was definitely the trauma and stress of the three years of dealing with the Park Service over property she would not willingly have sold at any price and the dread of leaving what had been her home for 67 years." |
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Eva and Bobby |
Eva was born on Nov. 12, 1892 in Newton County, Arkansas. Her full name was Barbara Eva Barnes |
Eva and some of her pigs |
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Granny Henderson's Cabin (as most folks know it) Click Here for Ozarks Alive Story |
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Eva at the Buffalo River getting water for her livestock, which included cows, pigs and chickens. |
Eve's parents were: Jonathan Barnes (2/11/53-1/31/94) and Iris Susan Buchanan (8/14/60-1/9/45) |
Eva and Bobby in her chicken coop |
Plumlee Cemetery Compton, Arkansas |
Eva's Funeral Card |
Barbara Eva Barnes Henderson Plumlee Cemetery Compton, Arkansas |
Eva and Frank Henderson Eva and Franklin Monroe Henderson were married on Aug. 16, 1908 in Newton County, Arkansas. They had only one child: Arbie She was born on Oct. 7, 1910. |
Eva and her dog Bobby |
Frank Henderson Mount Sherman Cemetery Mount Sherman, Arkansas |
Eva and Arbie |
Eva and Arbie |
Eva and Arbie |
Arbie Henderson Villines Arbie married Ray Villines on May 7, 1929 in Newton County, Arkansas. They had nine children. |
Arbie and Ray Villines Plumlee Cemetery Compton, Arkansas Ray and Arbie |
Jessie Raymond Villines |
Jim Bluff | ||
To get to Jim Bluff: From Granny's head south to the intersection of the Center Point Trail. (Access Point "4") At this intersection, head south along a trail, and in just a short distance you will see a trail heading off down the bluffline. Follow this trail down to the river and soon you will see Jim Bluff. |
Looking at Jim Bluff from Old River Trail (ORT) |
"G" Jim Bluff 36.05506°, 93.31394° |
Sneeds Creek | ||
Sneeds Creek Trail 36.08102°, 93.30317° |
Access Point "11" 36.07515°, 93.31289° |
Rock Quarry "K" 36.07320°, 93.31769° |
WF "f" 36.06665°, 93.33192° |
Vintage Autos |
"L" Evans-White House 36.05906°, 93.32622° Evans-White House (a.1919) Built by George Evans. Around 1940 the house became the home for Ray and Arbie Villines (Arbie was the daughter of Granny Henderson) |
Sandstone Shelters "M" 36.05970°, 93.32328° |
"N" Rocky Bottom on Sneeds Creek 36.05951°, 93.31944° |
Last crossing on Sneeds Creek 36.05973°, 93.31733° |
To Hemmed-In Hollow Falls | ||
From Granny Henderson's Cabin there is a horse trail heading east down to the Buffalo River. This horse trail intersects the Old River Trail. |
Follow the ORT, along Buffalo River north until you get to Sneeds Creek. Turn left, west, and find crossing at Access Point "6" 36.05917°, 93.31016° and trail on north side of Sneeds Creek which is the Hemmed-In Hollow high water bypass. NOTE: The easier way would be to continue along the ORT, crossing the Buffalo River twice until you get to Hemmed-In Hollow. |
Follow this trail for 0.8 miles to intersection of Compton Trail and Hemmed-In Hollow Falls Trail. |
Un-named Waterfall |
Intersection Compton Trail and Hemmed-In Hollow Falls Trail. Access Point "8" 36.06444°, 93.30925° |
Trail to Hemmed-In Hollow Falls 0.7 miles - one way |
Heading down trail to falls |
Access Point "9" Intersection 36.06959°, 93.30943° 0.2 miles to Falls - 0.7 miles to Buffalo River |
Un-named Waterfall |
Un-named Waterfall (aka Twin Falls below HIH Falls) |
Hemmed-In Hollow Falls (209') 36.07213°, 93.30753° |
Diamond Falls (148') from below 36.07167°, 93.30946° |
Now back to the intersection of Compton Trail and Hemmed-In Hollow Falls Trail. |
Heading uphill to California Point on the Compton Trail |
View of Hemmed-In Hollow from "I" California Point 36.06647°, 93.31182° |
Campsite just uphill from California Point |
Lots of rock stairs on Compton Trail |
Intersection of Compton and Bench Trail Access Point "7" 36.07436°, 93.31196° (Compton Trailhead 0.8 miles) |
About 800' down the Bench Trail..... |
.....you will find Wild Floyd Vic Flowers "H" Cabin (a.1935) 36.07501°, 93.30945° |
View into Hemmed-In Hollow from the back of Flowers Cabin (Pic by Patrick Caple) |
More rock stairs..... |
Compton Trailhead and Parking Area 36.08102°, 93.30317° |
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Roark Bluff Trail | ||
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The goal is to get up there...... |
Boat Launch Area |
Looking west at Steel Creek Campground |
Roark Bluff Trailhead "13" 36.03940°, 93.33568° |
Boat Launch Area East end of Steel Creek Campground |
Trail Access Point North side of Buffalo River 36.03940°, 93.33568° |
Looking east from Pedestal Point 36.04294°, 93.33979° |
Roark Bluff Photo Opt Location 36.04312°, 93.34000° |
View from Photo Opt "O" |
WF "g1" Roark Bluff Pouroff 36.04389°, 93.34432° |
Top of Roark Bluff Pouroff looking south |
WF "g2" 36.04442°, 93.34464° |
WF "g3" 36.044765°, 93.34504° |
WF "g3" (30') |
Bee Bluff Photo Opt looking south (Photo by Anthony Clark) 36.03547°, 93.34467° |